Cooking with Books: Slow-Roasted Tomatoes

After the economic bite we've taken in the last couple of years, lots of cooking shows and magazines have adopted the trend of telling us what to do with our leftovers. How can you turn that roast chicken into quesadillas the next night and pot pies after that?

Sally Schneider is the queen of this technique and has been since she published The Improvisational Cook. Her technique, however, is a little more refined... less about leftovers and more about how to master a simple technique and then use it to lead to new inspiration. In this great book, after a wonderfully informative introductory section on inspiration, flavor and essential pantry ingredients, the recipes begin.

And they follow a set pattern. After presenting the basic recipe (Homemade Mayonnaise, Panfried Fish Fillets, or Risotto, for example), she gives you some suggested improvisations in detail. Simple Panfried Fish Fillets become "Tuna with Sesame Seeds, Cracked Coriander and Grispy Ginger." Or a "Panfried Fish Sandwich with Bacon Mayonnaise." You get the idea.

It's a great technique. And one I've used before in mastering the art of canapes or my various variations on steamed mussels.

But there's so much more to learn from Ms. Schneider. Like these slow-roasted tomatoes that I turned into her silky and flavorful soup. Still to come are the sauce and tart she also suggests making.

Slow-Roasted Tomatoes

Makes about 60 roasted tomato halves if using plum/2 1/4 cups mashed or pureed

4 pounds ripe or nearly ripe tomatoes, about 30 plum tomatoes or 12 to 16 regular tomatoes

Extra virgin olive oil

About 1 teaspoon sugar

About 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Slice, oil and season the tomatoes. Preheat the oven to 325° F. Slice the plum tomatoes in half lengthwise through the stem; larger tomatoes should be quartered through the stem. in a medium bowl, toss the tomatoes with the olive oil to coat. Arrange the tomatoes cut side up on a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with the sugar, salt and pepper.

Roast the tomatoes for 2 1/2 to 3 hours until they have lost most of their liquid and are just beginning to brown. They should look like dried apricots and hold their shape when moved. If some tomatoes are done before others, remove them with a spatula while you continue cooking the rest. Cool ant room temperature.

To make the soup:

In a small skillet, combine 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil and 3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots; cover and cook over moderately low heat until the scallions are soft and just beginning to brown, about 7 minutes. Combine 1 3/4 Slow-Roasted Tomatoes and the sauteed shallots in a food processor or blender. With the motor running, drizzle in 2 1/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth; puree. Strain, if desired, through a coarse strainer.

Pour the soup into a medium saucepan and heat over moderate heat; adjust the seasoning. Ladle the soup into 4 warm soup bowls. Garnish, if desired, with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a dollop of creme fraiche or chopped fresh basil.