Mussels: Theme and Variations

When I posted this recipe for mussels recently, I mentioned that I don't even use a recipe very often any more. That's because that recipe and the one I've posted below showed me the basics. Now I can riff on that process with ingredients I have on hand or try new and different combinations every time I fix up a pot of these delicious shelled creatures.

Here's my technique:

Sauté your veggies.
In the pot you're using to cook your mussels, heat a tablespoons or two of olive oil. Add two or three veggies and saute for a couple of minutes. Of course, the obvious suspects are garlic and chopped onion, but you can also get exotic with jalapeño, red bell pepper, thinly sliced fennel, ginger, or your other favorites. After these sauté for a few, you could also add some diced tomato for a minute or two. Just think about your favorite flavor combos and experiment away.

Add the aromatics and spices.
Depending on what you're aiming for, you might use any variety of dried herbs. Oregano, thyme, Italian herb seasoning, crushed red pepper, chili powder, cumin, saffron, curry powder. Again, get creative. You'll just want to follow a theme throughout....more on that in a minute.

Time for the liquid.
Since you're essentially steaming the mussels, you need liquid. But not just water...you wnat something that will add another layer of flavor. Lots of recipes call for white wine and that's always a great choice. But you can get more exotic than that. I've used rosé wine. Even sparkling wine. But you could also go with beer. Dry sherry. And there are plenty of non-alcoholic options as well. Chicken, fish or vegetable stock. A can of tomatoes with their juice. Even coconut milk (yuck) for you real exotic types.


Dump in the mussels.
Make sure the mussels are all closed (discard those that aren't) and dump them in. They cook for about five minutes. This time, you discard those that are still closed.


Gild the lily.
A little greenery is always nice at this point. A handful of coarsely chopped parsley or basil. Even some baby spinach. Adds a nice color and texture to your final dish. Now all you need is that crusty bread I mentioned.

Keep with a theme.
Don't confuse your tastebuds by getting too creative. Think of a flavor profile and play within that category. For example, you can go Italian with onion and garlic, tomato, oregano and white wine. Or Southwestern with onion, garlic, red pepper, cumin, and tomatoes in their juice. get the idea? (One of my most successful experiments involved a little diced chorizo sausage, roasted red pepper, garlic, saffron, smoked paprika and a Spanish white wine. Delicious.)

If you're still worried about your improv skills, try this recipe from Food and Wine magazine inspired by the cooking of Galicia, a rugged coastal region in northwestern Spain. It will give you the basics. Then go for it.

Mussels in Sailor's Sauce
Makes 4 servings.

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 jalapeño, finely chopped
1 large tomato—peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, lightly crumbled
Large pinch of Spanish saffron, lightly crumbled
1/2 teaspoon all-purpose flour
1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Albariño
2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1/2 cup fish stock or bottled clam juice
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Crusty country bread, for serving

In a large, heavy saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, garlic and jalapeño and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato, oregano and saffron and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir it in. Add the wine and mussels, cover the pan and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the fish stock, parsley and lemon juice and cook over high heat, stirring, until the mussels open, about 5 minutes.

Discard any mussels that do not open. Transfer the mussels and their sauce to deep bowls. Serve at once with crusty bread to soak up the sauce.