Sunday, November 23, 2008

Countdown to Thanksgiving: Cranberry Sauce...Theme and Variations

Cranberry sauce is one of few exceptions to my standard rule of no fruit on the main course plate. The overwhelming combination of dense textures and rich flavors that appear on the Turkey Day table make my palate scream for something tangy, tart and refreshing before I dive in for the next forkful.

But no canned stuff for me. (Although I giggle when I think about my grandmother's Thanksgiving table...gorgeous crystal and china, vintage relish trays...and a perfectly formed can-shaped block of jellied cranberry sauce in a Fostoria dish. She didn't even bother slicing it up to disguise its origins.)

It's too simple to dump ingredients into a saucepan. My standard version is one package cranberries, one cup water and one cup sugar simmered until most of the cranberries have popped open. The sauce thickens as it cools.

But here are a couple of recipes for cranberry sauces that are only slightly more complicated to make, but even more delicious. Make several for your feast table...

(And while cranberries are so readily available in the grocery store, buy some extra bags and freeze them. All you have to do is put the bag into a freezer bag. Then you'll have them on hand for relishes, baking and cocktails.)

Cranberry Grape Compote
In this version, the grapes temper the tanginess of the cranberries for a slightly sweeter sauce.
From Everyday Food.
Makes four cups.

1 package (12 ounces) fresh cranberries
3 cups seedless red grapes
1 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt

In a large saucepan over medium-high, bring cranberries, grapes, sugar, and 1/2 cup water to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer until most of the cranberries have popped and grapes are falling apart, 10 to 15 minutes. (Note: I used a potato masher to crush the grapes a bit to help them pop.)

Remove from heat; add salt and stir to combine. Let cool to room temperature (compote will thicken as it cools). Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 2 weeks. Serve at room temperature.

Cranberry-Ginger Relish
This is a strongly flavored relish...and I loved it.
From Everyday Food.
Makes four cups.

1 bag (12 ounces) fresh or frozen cranberries
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or red-wine vinegar

In a large saucepan, bring cranberries, sugar, ginger, and 2 tablespoons water to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until most of the cranberries have popped, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in vinegar.

Remove relish from heat. Let cool to room temperature, and serve (or refrigerate in an airtight container up to 3 days).

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