Vegetable Stock

Our produce share has been heavy on the greens lately, but also lots of onions and carrots.  So I've been making a big batch of vegetable stock almost every weekend.  It's a great base for soups (one way to use up all the aforementioned greens), but I've also been taking little bottles of it to work to heat up and sip out of a coffee mug as an afternoon snack.  You could also use it to poach fish for a nice additional bit of flavor.


Vegetable Stock
Adapted from Bon Appetit.
Makes 2 quarts

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium onions, unpeeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
10 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 large carrots, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces button mushrooms, halved if large
2 heads of garlic, halved crosswise
6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Heat oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add remaining ingredients and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables begin to soften, 5-7 minutes. Add 4 quarts cold water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until stock is reduced by half, 1-1 1/2 hours.

Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl; discard solids.

Thanksgiving Leftovers: Turkey Carcass Stock

Did you use all your turkey stock on this big day for gravy and stuffing?  Now what to do when it's time to make the turkey-noodle soup....

Never fear.  See that turkey carcass there in the fridge?  Let's put it to good use.

Turkey Carcass Stock
Makes about 4 quarts.

Break the turkey carcass into 4 pieces and place in a large stockpot.  Cover with water.  Add fresh herbs (thyme, parsley, sage) and a couple of carrots and stalks of celery.  Let it simmer for about an hour. Probably won't need seasoning, but add salt and pepper if needed.

Strain and get that soup started....

Countdown to Thanksgiving: Make-Ahead Turkey Stock

You're going to want to have plenty of stock on hand next week.  And while acceptable, why use canned stuff in preparing one of the most visible meals of the year.  Fly your foodie flag high and make your own.  It's simple and you'll have good stuff to make gravy, moisten your dressing, and make the turkey soup or turkey and dumplings that you'll us to utilize those leftovers next weekend.)

Make-Ahead Turkey Stock
Makes 2 quarts.

5 pounds turkey wings (easy to find at your grocery store these days)
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 onions, unpeeled and quartered
2 heads garlic, halved horizontally
3 carrots
2 celery stalks
1 pound mushrooms, halved (optional, but adds a nice umami richness)
4 sprigs thyme
5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
6 leaves sage

Preheat oven to 450°.

In a large roasting pan, combine turkey wings, onion and garlic.  Drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat.  Spread in an even layer and roast for one hour, until meat and vegetables are very brown.

Transfer to a large pot.  Add carrots, celery, mushrooms and herbs.  Add water to cover (2-3 quarts).  Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 2 hours, skimming foam off of top of pot occasionally. 

Strain into another pot and boil until reduced to 2 quarts, about 30 minutes longer.

Countdown to Thanksgiving

Well, here we are...it's November.  And you've probably already been thinking about the impending Turkey Day holiday that's already only three weeks away.  You probably have your time-honored traditions; we all do.  But I also think this is a great time of the year to take inspiration from others, tinker with traditional recipes, and come up with new ideas that will become traditions of their own.

For the last several years, I've posted recipes leading up to Thanksgiving to make things easier.  As well as follow-up tips for ways to use those leftovers.  You can find past posts by going up to that little search box on the upper left and typing in "Thanksgiving."

And stick with me this year...there's even more to come.

Tuesday Tips

I try to be frugal in the kitchen.  While I don't spare on quality ingredients, I try not throw anything away.  Leftover wine goes into the vinegar crock.  (If you've never had homemade red wine vinegar, you don't know what you've missed.) Stale bread becomes breadcrumbs in the freezer before it goes bad.  And cherry tomatoes just past their prime get roasted and tossed in pasta for a light dinner.

Here are a couple more thrifty ideas that I was reminded of by a perusal of a recent issue of Martha Stewart's Everyday Food magazine.

• If you've clipped too much of a woody herb like rosemary or thyme, tie it with twine and hang upside down for a week or so.  Transfer to a jar and use as dried herbs.
• Keep a large zip-loc bag in the freezer. Dump veggie trimmings (onion peels, carrot tops, wilted celery) in and use to make stock periodically.  (The stock can be frozen too.  If you put into an ice cube tray, freeze and then store in another plastic bag, you can add to sauces and pasta dishes for an extra kick of flavor.)
• And this one my grandmother would appreciate.  Strain sediment out of bacon grease after you've fried up a batch and keep in a jar in the refrigerator for up to six months.  Just a little (only half a teaspoon or so) adds a lot of flavor when you are frying an egg or sauteing greens.

Perfectly Poached Eggs

A poached egg is a standard part of my weekend breakfast repertoire.  Sure, sometimes it's destined to be a part of Eggs Benedict or Eggs Florentine.  Even more often though, it's the headliner.  With a piece of toast or an English muffin on the side, it's a healthy way to start the day.

Over the years, I thought I had learned all the tricks of the trade.  Room-temperature eggs. Slowly simmering water. A little vinegar in the poaching water.  And creating a little whirlpool for the eggs as I slip them in.

But thanks to Bon Appetit and superchef Thomas Keller, my poached eggs are better then ever.

One thing I learned was that FRESH eggs are critical.  The white deteriorates as the egg ages, leaving you with tendrils rather than a compact white.

The other shocker was to not just put vinegar in the water, but actually put the eggs in vinegar  for a few minutes before cooking.  It tightens the white and prevents it from spreading out from the beginning when you put it into the pan.

Here's the full recipe.

Perfectly Poached Eggs
Makes two.

1 cup distilled white vinegar

2 large eggs

Coarse sea salt (such as Maldon) and freshly ground black pepper

Pour 1/2 cup vinegar into each of 2 small bowls. Crack 1 egg into each bowl, taking care not to break yolk; let stand for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil over medium-high heat.

Using a whisk, vigorously swirl water until a vortex forms in the center. Slip 1 egg with vinegar into vortex and continue to swirl water with whisk around edges of pan until it returns to a boil. The egg white should wrap tightly around the yolk, forming an oval shape.

As soon as water returns to a boil, reduce heat to medium and gently simmer egg, frequently swirling water, for 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift egg from water and use kitchen shears to trim any stray pieces of egg white. Place egg on paper towels and gently blot; transfer egg to a bowl or plate. Repeat with remaining egg. (If poaching more than 2 eggs, repeat using fresh water.)

Season with salt and pepper.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Immediately transfer to a bowl of ice water and let cool. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Cover; chill. Rewarm in a saucepan of simmering water for 1 minute.

Read More http://www.bonappetit.com/recipes/2012/04/the-perfect-poach#ixzz1w7RGd5ZW

Tuesday Tip-Day

Here are some more time-saving, life-uncomplicating tips I have run across.  Some I've tried; others are on the list.

• This one is tried and true for me.  Buy your nuts in large quantities, whether on sale at the holidays or in bulk, and store them in the freezer.  You'll always have the pecans, pine nuts, or walnuts you need for a recipe.  Even better, since they are on hand, you'll be inspired to toast with spices as a cocktail snack, throw on top of a salad, or crust chicken or fish.
• I've discovered this doesn't always work...but light a candle nearby before you chop onions.  The flames help to neutralize the sulfuric fumes.
• Another prep and freeze idea: grate a large gingerroot and divide it into tablespoon measurements.  Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze.  When frozen, transfer to a Ziploc bag for storage.  Add the ginger to soups or thaw and use in stir-fries or cocktails.
• I use a lot of bell pepper...especially red ones.  How happy was I to realize that they are much easier to julienne from the tender inside rather than the peel-covered outside.
• I use a potato ricer for perfect mashed potatoes.  How about using it for guacamole too?  Place large chunks of avocado and press into the bowl.  Scrape the outside of the ricer and stir in your other ingredients.

More Tuesday Tips from Food Network Magazine

I haven't tried all of these, but  am always looking for ways to be more efficient and effective in the kitchen.  Check these ideas out.

• Don't just season at the end.  Taste as you go and season in stages to bring the best out of all your ingredients.
• Respect your fish.  Season it simply and cook it carefully.  And always finish it with a little squeeze of lemon juice.
• Do you grind your own beef for burgers?  Grind in some bacon for a bit of added fat and a blast of extra flavor.
• When you cook cauliflower, add a little milk to the salted water to keep it bright white.
• After you drain your cooked potatoes for mashed potatoes, return them to the hot pan, cover and let steam for 5 minutes.  They will dry out just enough to mash to a perfect texture that soaks up the butter and cream.
• When cooking pasta and sauce, reserve about 1/4 cup of your pasta water just before draining.  Add it back to the pasta as you sauce it.  It will help thicken the sauce just enough.  Just be careful of seasoning...that pasta water is likely to be salty if you've cooked the pasta the way so many of us do.
• Here's an easy way to seed a chile. Make four straight cuts down the sides.  You'll have four long pepper slivers with the cluster of seeds remaining in the center.

Tuesday Tips

Another in an ad hoc series of posts collecting tips you can use in the kitchen.  These come from Food Network Magazine:

• Cooking with kale, arugula or chard?  Prolong their lifespan after you get them home from the grocery by wrapping them loosely in a damp paper towel and placing in a Ziploc bag.  I know from experience it works...I had a bunch of kale last for a week before I got around to making that soup recipe I wanted to try.
• Zesting?  Do it right over the mixing bowl.  You'll get aromaqtic citrus oils spritzed in with the zest.
• It's always difficult to know if the oil is hot enough for frying.  Put the food into too-cool oil and you end up with a greasy mess.  Stick a wooden skewer or spoon in to the oil; if bubbles form around the wood, then you are good to go.
• The same technique you use to get a sear on scallops applies to fish also.  Rest the fish on paper towels skin-side down for a few minutes before cooking.  Then cook skin-side down first over medium heat.  Flip over for the final few minutes of cooking.  The result?  Wonderfully crispy skin that no one will want to leave on their plates.
• Looking to caramelize onions quickly?  Cook them in a dry non-stick sauté pan over medium-high heat.

Lemon Curd

I can make fresh pasta.  Have made my own Asian dumplings.  I keep jars of wine I'm turning into vinegar in the pantry.  Cured salmon to end up with gravlax. And it's standard procedure for me to add a bit of lemon juice to milk to make fresh ricotta. Homemade chicken stock? That's a no-brainer.

Still on the list for me to try making on my own: mayonnaise, mustard, sauerkraut, and Canadian bacon.


But I've always wondered which things are worth making vs. what I should buy.  I have no trouble using refrigerated pie crusts and, while I CAN make fresh pasta, I hardly ever do.  The stuff from the grocery is just fine.

So how excited was I to run across a book that helps guide me through the decision process? Make the Bread, Buy the Butter includes more than 120 recipes for homemade foods like cheeses, condiments, cured meats and bread products.  Even more valuable, author Jennifer Reese shares her experiences and analyses in whether they are worth it or not--both in terms of cost and hassle factor. 

I won't spoil the book by listing which way she sends you on a variety of recipes, but I will share that I have been convinced to make lemon curd from this day forward.  No reason to spend a lot of money at the grocery store; I made a batch with some Meyer lemons and it was sublime.  It's delicious in tiny phyllo cups as mini-tarts.  Or a spoonful mixed into plain yogurt for a flavor boost.

Lemon Curd
Makes one cup.
From Make the Bread, Buy the Butter.

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (about 5 lemons)
Finely grated zest of one lemon
1/2 cup sugar
3 large eggs

In the top of a double boiler set over simmering water, whisk together all the ingredients.  Continue whisking until the curd is thick and shiny, about 10 minutes.

Pour the curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl to strain out any bits of zest and egg.

The curd will keep about a week, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.

Microwave Scrambled Eggs

I eat an egg or two lots of mornings for breakfast.  Scrambled or poached.  Or even hard-boiled.  When pressed for time, I've been known to "poach" an egg by putting it in a small ramekin and nuking it for 45 seconds or so.  Gives you a nice firm white and a runny yolk.

But I'd never nuked scrambled eggs.  Ran across one of those Incredible Edible Egg advertisements in a magazine that said you could make scrambled eggs in the microwave in a coffee cup.  I didn't believe it...until I tried it.  Great results.  Try it yourself and see if you don't agree.  It's a quick (and portable) way to start your day with some good-quality protein.

Microwave Scrambled Eggs
Makes one serving.

Coat a microwave-safe mug with cooking spray.

Add two eggs and 2 tablespoons milk and beat until blended.

Microwave on high for 45 seconds.  Stir.

Microwave until eggs are almost set, 30-45 seconds longer.

Season with salt and pepper.  Top with 2 tablespoons grated cheese if you'd like.

Clean Out the Refrigerator Quiche

Sunday is the day I hit our local market for produce.  I stock up on what I think we need for the week--salad stuff, things to juice, smoothie ingredients, and sweet potatoes for snacks for our semi-diabetic dog.  Then, I come home and clean out the garage refrigerator, tossing out leftovers we didn't get to (usually not many of those) and any veggies that are starting to show their age.

But before they hit the compost pile, I set aside any that might not be perfect, but are still perfectly edible for what I like to call "Clean Out the Refrigerator Quiche."  With the refrigerated pie crusts and eggs we always have on hand, we have a simple Sunday supper...or breakfast to last the week.

If you've never done it, quiche is simple to make.  You blind bake your crust then add the egg filling and bake for 35-40 minutes until set.  If you need a primer on the basic technique, here's a recipe for the classic Quiche Lorraine.

Now take that idea and get creative with what you have on hand.  For example, last weekend, I made a delicious one with leftover bacon bits, a little Mexican-style cheese, an overripe tomato that I diced up and the tops of several green onions chopped.  I always think cheese and veggies and add some meat or seafood as a bonus if it's around.  Here are some other ingredients you might try in a combo that sounds good to you.

• Seafood: Do you have a can of crab on hand?  A few shrimp leftover from a shrimp cocktail that you could dice up?
• Cheese: About anything works here...grated Cheddar or Mozzarella or Swiss.  Goat cheese.  Parmesan.  I've even seen recipes with Brie or blue cheese.
• Veggies: Here's where the sky's the limit. If you'd like, you can saute them up first.  More often than not, I just throw them in after I've sliced or diced them.  Mushrooms, red pepper, onion, scallions, tomatoes (halved cherry tomatoes are good), asparagus (steam that first), canned artichoke hearts, spinach, you get the idea.
• Herbs: Throw a couple tablespoonsful of chopped fresh herbs if you've got them: parsley, dill, even cilantro if you're a fan.  (A pinch of dried thyme or oregano works also.)
• Spice it up: I commonly include a pinch of crushed red pepper, but you could also add a bit of fresh jalapeno or a chipotle in adobo sauce if you'd really like a morning pick-me-up.

Try it out yourself.  And if you create a combination that is can't miss, share it in the comments below or add a link.

Tips from Food Network Chefs....

A while back, I shared some kitchen tips that I had found in an issue of Food Network Magazine. 

Here are a few more...

• Keep flavored vinegars (or just good-quality "plain" ones) near the stove so you don't always just reach for the salt.  Acid enhances flavor.
• There's a reason all the TV chefs have their mise en place ready. Cut your vegetables and meat and make your sauces first. You won't leave out an ingredient and it's much more efficient as you are preparing the recipe.
• We all have heard the adage, but Rick Bayless swears by it.  Clean as you go.
• This one's a rule in my kitchen.  Pull your steaks out of the fridge an hour or so ahead of time so they can come to room temperature.  They cook more evenly.
• And I love this one from Claire Robinson...enjoy your time in the kitchen.  Shoes off, music on, favorite beverage in hand...

Housemade Gravlax

I'm a sucker for good cured salmon.  I use it to make elegant canapes for parties.  Snack on it at the cocktail hour.  And often have a couple of slices on toast or bagel things for breakfast.



So why not make it at home?  It's simple and inexpensive.  This recipe calls for a two-pound fillet, but you can easily adjust the cure quantities and make a lot less.

Housemade Gravlax

1 large bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped
2 cups coarse salt
2 cups brown sugar
Two 2-pound extremely fresh salmon fillet (sushi grade), skin on
1 teaspoon crushed Szechuan peppercorns
1/4 cup vodka

Crush the dill with the coarse salt and add the brown sugar.

Sprinkle the salmon fillets with the Szechuan peppercorns. Cover with the dill mixture and splash with vodka. Sandwich the fillets together, tail-to-tail, and cover with plastic wrap. Cover the salmon with another plate and something that weighs about a pound. Refrigerate for 24 hours.

After that time, the flesh will have lost its translucence. Rinse under cold water and pat dry.

Slice the gravlax thinly on the bias and without the skin.

Tip for Making Candy

Lots of folks make candy at this time of the year.  I'm no different and in a couple of days, I'll be posting a great recipe for microwave peanut brittle.

In the meantime, here's a list of reminders to help you make sweet treats successfully.

• Rain, rain, go away.  Don't try and make candy on an overly humid day.  Wait until it's dry outside and your kitchen is right at 70 degrees.
• Read through the recipe several times before you start.  Candy can go downhill quickly, and you don't want to be reading instructions while your brittle is hardening (ruining) in the bowl.
• NO SUBSTITUTIONS.  This is not the time to try and save calories or fat grams.  Use exactly what the recipe calls for, including sugar, butter and heavy cream.
• This stuff can be dangerous.  I have never had a burn worse than the time I dropped hot sugar syrup on my thumb.  Be very careful...and this is probably not a time to have little kids help you in the kitchen.

What candymaking tips would you add?

Pomegranates

Pomegranates (and pomegranate juice) are everywhere these days.  You can find them at most grocery stores, and I love that.  They are, in my mind, a perfect ingredient for Christmas-time--red jewels that add a touch of class to lots of dishes and cocktails. And ruby red juice to boot.



Thanks to Food Network Magazine, here are some interesting ways for you to put them to use:

• Mix up pomegranate cosmos...just replace the cranberry with pomegranate juice.
• While you're at it, replace your morning OJ with pomegranate juice.
• Pretty red and green Christmas crostini:  Spread toasted baguette slices with goat cheese and sprinkle pomegranate seeds and chopped pistachios on top.
• How about pom soda? Muddle a few seeds, add ice, pomegranate juice and top with club soda.
• Kick up your vinaigrette.  Whisk 1 tablespoon pomegranate juice, 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, and 1/4 cup olive oil together.  Season with salt and pepper.
• Top your salmon with 1/2 cup slivered toasted almonds and 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds.
• Simmer equal parts apple cider and pomegranate juice to warm the cockles of your heart.
• If you want another cocktail, pour 2 ounces each of bourbon and pomegranate juice over ice.  Add club soda and garnish with an orange slice.
• And of course, a classic.  Simply pour a glass of your favorite bubbly and toss in a couple of pomegranate seeds.  The little rubies will dance in the bubbles.  Quite the festive sipper!

And a few tips:

• You can store whole pomegranates in plastic bags for up to three months in the refrigerator.
• No-mess seeding: Quarter and submerge in water.  As you loosed the seeds, they will sink and the pithy parts will float to the top.
• Check out Martha Stewart's method also.  Quarter the pomegranate, hold over a bowl and whack the skin with a wooden spoon.  The seeds will fall into the bowl.
• You can always take the easy way out and buy pre-seeded pomegranates.  They make a yummy quick snack.
• Make your pomegranate juice last even longer and make pomegranate molasses.  (I'm going to test it out and post a recipe sometime soon.)

Cooking Tips from the Folks at The Food Network

Started posting tips that were gathered together in the May edition of Food Network Magazine back in October, but there's plenty more to go. Here's another batch...

• Blot meat dry before you get ready to sear it.  If the meat releases too much moisture when it hits the hot pan, it will steam rather than sear.
• Need to cut pancetta or bacon into lardons or other smaller pieces?  Put it in the freezer for fifteen minutes and it's much easier to cut.
• To turn your oven into an industrial oven and get great crispy caramelization on roasted vegetables, turn it up as hot as it goes and put a sheet pan inside for 10-15 minutes.  Toss the veggies with olive oil , salt and pepper and put on the hot pan.  Turn the heat down to 400° and then watch carefully.  That initial blast of heat will caramelize the sugars in the vegetables quickly.
• Make sure you have a cast iron pan in your collection.  It's a great even cooking surface and is a cinch to clean.
• Keep fresh basil longer by putting its stems in water at room temperature.  It's a nice fresh addition to the look of your kitchen also...

Tips of the Trade

More cooking tips from Food Network personalities as compiled in a recent issue of Food Network Magazine.

• Treat recipes as a guideline, not the Bible.  Replace ingredients you don't care for with similar ingredients you like.  If you like thyme and not tarragon (that's me!), use thyme.
• If you're using raw onions in a salad or salsa, rinse the diced onions under cold running water, then blot dry.  You'll get rid of the sulfurous gas that can mess up the recipe.
• If you slice garlic instead of mincing it, it's less likely to burn when you saute it.
• Keep a bottle of REALLY good olive oil on hand.  It's a great "finisher" on pizza, mozzarella, pasta, fish, meat and vegetables.
• Save a leftover Parmesan rind and use it as an additional layer of flavor when cooking soup.  Throw it in and then fish it out before serving.

Countdown to Thanksgiving: Gravy 101

Thanks to Martha (yes, THAT Martha) and her magazine, here's a primer on your gravy for Turkey Day. (My text, not hers.)

• Your pan drippings are the foundation of a good gravy. Baste the bird often, adding 1/2 cup dry white wine 30 minutes into roasting.  Watch the pan and add more liquid if necessary to make sure the fats and juices aren't burning.
• You need some stock.  While the turkey is cooking, combine 1 turkey neck, 1 stalk of celery, 1 carrot, 1/4 onion, 10 peppercorns, and a bundle of herbs (parsley, rosemary and a bay leaf) in a  large saucepan.  Add 8 cups water and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer until reduced by half, about an hour.  Strain and discard solids.  Let cool.
• When the bird is done, transfer to a platter and let rest.  Reserve the pan and drippings and continue.... 
• Slurry it up.  Combine 1/4 cup flour and 1 cup stock.  Shake, shake, shake.
• Pour the pan drippings into a fat separator and let it do its thing. You want one cup of fat-free drippings.
• Deglaze the roasting pan, setting it across two burners and pour in 1/2 cup dry white wine.  Bring to a boil and scrape up the browned bits with a wooden spoon.
• Into the roasting pan, whisk the slurry and remaining stock.  Add defatted pan juice and bring to a boil.  Cook until thickened, about 12 minutes.
• Strain the gravy and season with kosher salt and ground black pepper. 
• Makes a little less than two cups...lots of effort, for not much product, but is SOOOO worth it.  After all, there's only one Thanksgiving a year.

Tips of the Trade...

Here are a few (unrelated I'll admit) kitchen tips I've run across lately...

• If you're like me and the other half, you love BLT's.  (For us, more often than not, it's just BT's.)  But this is NOT the time to buy a tomato at the grocery store.  With our Texas farmers done for this year, I refuse to buy the inspid poseurs that present themselves from the hothouse.  But here's a hint that allows you to approach the same flavor.  Mix some chopped cherry tomatoes in some mayonnaise; spread that on some bread and add the lettuce and bacon.  Not the same, but maybe enough to keep you happy until next summer.
• I'm betting egg casseroles are in your holiday brunch plans.  But who has room for those big casseroles to sit in the fridge overnight at this time of year?  They're already brimming over with food, party fixings and leftovers.  Instead, pour the ingredients into a pitcher.  Takes up less room and you can easily pour into your baking dish the next morning.
• Are shrimp a go-to cocktail buffet option for you?  Me too.  But how do you keep them cold?  not ice, you end up with the little suckers swimming in the Arctic.  How about frozen lemon slices?  Cold and flavorful all at once.

Always on the look out for new tips.  Have any to share?  Post them in the comment below.