Sunday, December 31, 2006

Eggs Benedict: A Great Way to Ring in the New Year

Holiday mornings are great days for brunch. You want to sleep late, but want also to have something special to get the day started. So, tomorrow morning, to greet 2007, we'll have Eggs Benedict to start the year right. Here are some ideas to make this favorite of brunch dishes even more delicious.




Of course, the traditional Eggs Benedict calls for a toasted English muffin topped with a slice of Canadian bacon and a perfectly poached egg and then covered with Hollandaise sauce. (I confess...I buy my Hollandaise sauce in a jar or make it from a mix. Maybe someday I'll learn how to make it from scratch and share it with you here!)


But there are countless variations you can try. The one constant is that poached egg...
  • Instead of Canadian bacon, try prosciutto. Or for a Southern twist, a nice slice of ham.
  • Use crab meat or shrimp (or even lobster!) on top of the muffin before you add the egg. Or even replace the meat AND the English muffin with a crab cake.
  • Stay away from meat and use steamed spinach (make sure you've drained the liquid away so the muffin stays crisp) as a base for the egg and sauce. (Also known as Eggs Florentine.) Or for those watching their carbs, do away with the muffin and meat altogether and serve a poached egg on a bed of the spinach.
  • I even went so far as to build a delicious Eggs Benedict this way: muffin, egg, fried oyster, Hollandaise. I felt like I HAD to be in New Orleans!
  • And I've always wanted to try combining two of my breakfast favorites by having Eggs Benedict on smoked salmon. Hmmm....maybe a bagel instead of English muffin!

Try your favorites in creative variations. Whether you go the traditional route or make it your own, you'll love treating yourself to this brunch classic.

Kitchen 101 Plus: Poaching Eggs

To make delicious Eggs Benedict, you of course have to poach eggs. Now I've been known to take the easy way out and poach an egg in the microwave in the morning for a quick breakfast, but a luxurious brunch requires doing it the right way. And, unfortunately, the right way is not all that obvious. Here are some hints I've discovered over the years for perfectly poached eggs.
  • Use the freshest eggs possible. It really makes a difference in the way they hold together. The whites stay "bunched up" better the fresher they are. (And let them come to room temperature for about ten minutes before you poach if you can.)
  • Don't forget the vinegar. To four cups of water, add 1/2 cup white vinegar and a half teaspoon salt.
  • And use a deeper sauce pan rather than a short-sided saute pan. The deeper water keeps the eggs nice and round rather than flattening them out into diner-style discs.

The whole process goes as follows:

To a saucepan, add four cups water, 1/2 cup white vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Heat to a boil and then lower the heat to maintain a bare simmer. (You shouldn't see ANY bubbles breaking the surface of the water.) Crack a fresh egg into a saucer or small measuring cup and slowly lower the egg into the water. (you don't want it spreading out any more than you can avoid. Some people even try to create a little "whirlpool" for each egg as they drop them in.

Repeat with up to four eggs. Turn off the heat and cover the pan. Allow to poach for three minutes exactly for medium-firm yolks. Adjust the time up or down according to your taste.

Remove from the poaching liquid with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. Cover to keep warm while you poach the remaining eggs needed.

If you use these techniques, you'll have perfect eggs for your Eggs Benedict. But don't save them for that. There's no better breakfast than a poached egg and a piece of toast to mop up those deliciously warm and runny yolks.

Saturday, December 30, 2006

New Year's Eve Elegant Dinner-Simpler than You Think!

What would you say to this as a New Year's Eve menu?

Phyllo appetizers : two kinds-- spinach and cheese and roasted vegetables.

Shrimp cocktail and lobster bisque.

Individual beef Wellingtons and spinach souffle.

Creme brulee.

Sophisticated, huh? Elegant. Delicious.

But I know what you're thinking...good grief, will I spend the rest of my life cooking?!?

Well, yes, if you fixed it all from scratch. But what would you say if I told you you could buy all these things pre-prepared from your grocery store and that all you have to do is open packages and heat up?

Hey...ok....stop kissing me!

I decided that this was the year for an elegant, but EASY, New Year's Eve dinner for me and my other half. We've done so much cooking and entertaining over the last couple of weeks that we need a break. But we also deserve a December 31st to remember. So, I hit two major grocery stores and found all I needed. (Hint: The more "gourmet" a store you hit (ala Central Market or Whole Foods here in Dallas), the more choices you'll have. But even the larger Tom Thumb and Kroger stores can serve you well.) Here's my shopping list and a few more hints.

Appetizers
Start in the frozen food section and buy a box of the many pre-made phyllo appetizers available. We tried a variety assortment that included spinach and cheese, potato and garlic, and roasted vegetable. After about fifteen minutes, we were enjoying gourmet nibbles.

First Course
I bought a dozen giant pre-cooked shrimp at Central Market's seafood counter. I let them thaw for a couple of hours in the refrigerator and dunked them in bottled cocktail sauce that I doctored up with a little more horseradish.

Also tried Safeway brand lobster bisque, available here in Dallas at Tom Thumb in their deli section. I enjoyed it, but my other half found it a bit artificial tasting. (I think they went heavy on the cheap sherry in the recipe, but I think it could have been redeemed with a squeeze of lemon and a couple additional chunks of lobster (or even crawfish or shrimp).) Found a great soup at Whole Foods Market though that made him happy. An artichoke crab bisque that was delicious and creamy. So scour your groceries and gourmet markets for a sophisticated soup that you'll enjoy. Check the seafood and deli sections for any gourmet versions they might carry.

Main Course
Hit the frozen food section for this one. Cuisine Solutions makes wonderful individual Beef Wellingtons. Two to the package, they're not cheap at $24 a box, but they were quite good. Filet mignon topped with a mushroom duxelle sauce and beautifully wrapped in puff pastry. Ignore the directions though. After the suggested 20 minutes of cooking the beef was still frozen solid. So get out your instant read thermometer and start checking after about 40 minutes. 135 degrees will give you a great medium rare. And make sure and tent your baking sheet with foil so the puff pastry doesn't get too brown.

I served the beef Wellingtons on a pool of bottled Bearnaise sauce (Reese brand-they make a decent Hollandaise too) that I heated in the microwave. With Stouffer spinach souffle on the side, we had a wonderfully decadent dinner.

Dessert
Then polished everything off with creme brulee. We are big fans of the version that Central Market sells in their bakery, but this time we tried a frozen version from Tom Thumb. Just has to be thawed and then the sugar broiled on top. Quite easy and delicious.

We had Champagne with all courses and it was wonderful. Check my entry from a day or so ago about great sparkling wines you can buy.

I love to cook and could have fixed much of this menu from scratch. I'm also a fan of the simple solution though, so finding these gourmet convenience products was lots of fun. This menu is elegant enough for you to fix not only for New Year's Eve, but also Valentine's Day, an anniversary, or anytime you want to treat yourself without all the work.

Bon appetit!

Thursday, December 28, 2006

New Year's Toasts: Champagnes and Sparkling Wines

Yes, black-eyed peas are a Southern tradition for New Year's, but an international tradition is ringing in the New Year with a glass of bubbly. For years, I would spring for Moet and Chandon White Star as my sparkler of choice. It's still a good one, but I've learned there's soooooo much more out there. Here's a short list of sparkling wines that I think you'd be proud to serve to guests. Or just to you and your main squeeze!

A California vintage that got good press in The New York Times last week is the Schramsberg 2002 blanc de blancs. Made entirely from Chardonnay, Eric Asimov says that it's dry and crisp and compares favorably to the real stuff from France. It goes for around $25 a bottle. I didn't have a chance to shop for it here in Dallas, so not sure how readily available it is.

I know you can find Domaine Chandon, another California cuvee, in your local wine store or even grocery. It's non-vintage brut goes for around $25 and scored 88 points in Wine Spectator. It's rich with nice pear and apple scents and taste. All-around yummy.

Also look for American labels Gloria Ferrer (California) and Domaine Ste. Michelle (Washington). They score well with critics and are good values at less than $20.

(And, by the way, this is a GREAT time to stock up on sparkling wine. Most of it is on sale and some stores may have an up to 20% discount for mix-and-match case purchases.)

Spain also provides great values. I've talked before about Segura Viudas Heredad Reserva cava. It's a good one. And for a big party, you can't beat Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava in the black bottle for less than $10.

I sprang this year for a REAL Champagne. (That just means one actually made in the Champagne--I am not a snob when it comes to sparkling wines. LOVE ones from other regions of the world...as you can see from testimony above.) Laurent-Perrier Brut Champagne L-P. It scored well with Wine Spectator. It's floral and has nice green apple kick. Hopefully will stand up to the elegant New Year's Eve menu I'll blog about tomorrow. Runs for $37 normally, but I was lucky enough to find on sale for less than thirty dollars.

Whatever your choice, lift a glass to a happy and healthy 2007! (And start things off by drinking responsibly please.)

Tuesday, December 26, 2006

A New Year's Tradition: Black-Eyed Peas

OK...so we're barely through Christmas, but it IS already time to think about New Year's Eve and Day. For the next week, I'll be blogging ideas for an elegant and EASY New Year's Eve dinner. Sparkling wines you'll want to toast with. And maybe a resolution or two.

But, first let's start with the most important part. Here in the South it's a tradition to eat black-eyed peas on New Year's Day to bring good luck and good fortune in the year to come. Supposedly, you should eat at least 365 peas--one for each day of the year. I'll take any excuse to fix up a "mess of peas", so here's my recipe.

New Year's (or Anytime) Black-Eyed Peas
6-8 slices bacon
1 onion, coarsely chopped
4 cups black-eyed peas (If you've planned ahead, you will have some that you bought from the farmers' market this fall and stuck in the freezer. I actually prefer purple hull peas to black-eyes, so that's what I buy. I'm out of stock right now though, so will buy a couple of bags of frozen "field peas" from the grocery. By the time, I've "doctored" them up, they'll taste just like fresh. Just don't try and use canned. Please.)
Salt and pepper

Cut bacon in one-inch pieces. In a large sauce pan over medium-low heat, cook the bacon for three or four minutes to render out some of the fat. (You can also substitute turkey bacon, but you'll need to add a tablespoon of oil as you cook. DON'T skip the bacon though; it adds a great flavor.) Add the onion and saute until onion is translucent. Pour in peas and stir to coat with bacon fat and incorporate onion.

Pour in enough water to cover. Simmer peas on low heat until tender, three or four hours. Stir gently periodically, being careful not to break up the peas. Add water as needed to keep peas covered. Season during last hour with salt and pepper.

Of course, you can bake up some corn bread and do the real Southern thing with some greens or cabbage on the side and you're SURE to ring in the New Year the old-fashioned way.

Monday, December 25, 2006

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Hope you have a wonderful day with family and friends. And hope you take the time to look around at all the beauty you have in your life.

Sunday, December 24, 2006

Feliz Navidad on Christmas Eve

So here we are. Christmas Eve. Whether or not you're ready! And I pretty much am. Regardless, this is a day to enjoy. Final preparations. Gift wrapping. Christmas music on the stereo. And the anticipation of friends and family tonight and tomorrow.

Tomorrow, we make the Christmas trek. My partner's sister's for brunch and presents. Then, my parents' house early evening for cocktails, stockings and beef tenderloin for dinner. It's great to see everyone, but exhausting by the time the day is over. They couldn't live further apart. So, a couple of years ago, we put our foot down and said we'd be at our own house for Christmas Eve. Of course, we invited people to join us and it's become a tradition. We have a casual dinner with family and friends and sit around and relax. It's a perfect way to spend the evening.

And we follow the example of so many in this part of Texas and have tamales for dinner. Again, there's no reason to try and make when others can do it better. So, I bought pork and chicken tamales from Luna's here in Dallas. (Everyone swears they're the best.) And we'll supplement with salsas: homemade pico de gallo and roasted tomatillo. Corn dip. Queso. And this great easy-to-make chicken enchilada casserole. With a cerveza and a margarita, it will be a feliz navidad to remember.

Chicken Tortilla Casserole

12 corn tortillas
1 small onion, chopped
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can cream of chicken soup
1 cup sour cream
2 small (4.5 oz.) cans chopped green chiles (plus half their juice)
1/2 tablespoon garlic salt
4 cups chopped cooked chicken (I use all white meat, but you could easily get 4 cups of chicken from one store-bought rotisserie chicken)
3/4 lb shredded cheddar cheese
1/2 lb shredded Monterrey Jack cheese (Don't worry too much about cheese ratio. I usually just buy the Mexican blend pre-shredded cheese you can get at the grocery store.)
3-4 tablespoons butter

Fry corn tortillas in oil until just soft. Set aside to drain on paper towels. When cool enough to handle, tear into pieces just bigger than bite sized.

Combine onion, soups, sour cream, chilies and garlic salt. Blend well.

To assemble casserole, arrange half tortillas pieces in bottom of greased 9 by 13 inch baking dish. Cover with half of chicken. Layer in half of soup mixture and sprinkle with half of cheese. Repeat layers, ending with cheese. Dot with butter.

Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.

Friday, December 22, 2006

Holiday Centerpieces

So, it's only a couple of days before Christmas. If you're like me, your house is filled with the debris of Christmas Future. Stacks of things to go in stockings. Gifts to be wrapped. The wrapping paper, bows and tags to wrap said gifts. And probably a recipe card or cookbook or two as you finalize the holiday menu.

Don't panic. You'll be ready. Sit back and pour yourself a holiday cocktail and let's talk about how to make your table festive for your Christmas buffet or dinner party. I've got several ideas. Check the post below for pictures of all three.
The first is a little "non-traditional." Certainly red and green are the colors of Christmas, but, for me, blue and white and silver conjure up images of winter in general. This is a look that can carry over to your New Year's Eve party as well as be a beautiful tablescape for Christmas. Silver candlesticks or candleholders. (I have several silver reindeer that I love.) Blue runners and napkins and tablecloths. Crystal candleholders and serving trays. That silver tray you never use. A clear glass or white bowl filled with silver and white Christmas balls. All complemented by candlelight. To top it off, I like to use white spider mums as the floral accent. They remind me of snowflakes.
But there's nothing wrong with tradition either. The second photo shows a wonderful green pottery container that I have filled with evergreens and holly. You can get assorted evergreen branches in the floral section of large groceries. Or you can sometimes get trimmings for free from home centers or Christmas tree lots. The holly can be clipped from your or a neighbor's (get permission) yard. Set on a red platter, this is wonderfully old-fashioned and provides a great natural touch.
Of course, Christmas is a time for the kid in all of us, and the third idea fits that philosophy perfectly. Glass vases or jars filled with peppermints and gumdrops. And if you're lucky enough to find one, a gum drop tree just like the one my grandmother always had. Your guests can both look at and taste your centerpieces. Put a couple of toys or children's ornaments alongside and you have a table just begging to be played with.
Another idea I've seen in magazine this year is using cut amaryllis. A couple stems of amaryllis in a glass vase filled with cranberries or glass beads is easy and quite beautiful. (I did three white amaryllis in a rectangular glass vase filled with clear glass beads for our pot-luck wine dinner at the beginning of December.) You can buy amaryllis stems at flower shops. Make sure and fill the stem with water and put your thumb over it as you sink it in the vase.
Enjoy. Post a comment below and let me know what you do to bring the Christmas spirit to your table.

Photos of Holiday Centerpieces




Thursday, December 21, 2006

More Homemade Gifts: Marshmallows and Hot Chocolate Mix

So, I've spent the afternoon baking mini loaves of pumpkin bread and making spiced pecans. Will put the pecans into jars and wrap the pumpkin bread in colored cellophane. Top all with a bow and get ready to distribute to friends and neighbors. As I've said before, I think homemade gifts are the best kind. So how excited was I to get a Christmas tin filled with delicious peppermint marshmallows and hot chocolate mix from a couple we know. Didn't even have to test this recipe! Tried them last night before bed and immediately asked for the how-to's on both. here you go. They both seem simple enough that they still could be accomplished in time to make people on your gift list quite happy. (Don't forget to make enough for yourself to keep!)

Hot Chocolate Mix
1 (25.6 oz.) pkg. instant nonfat dry milk
1 (6 oz.) jar powdered non-dairy creamer
2 cups powdered sugar
1 (16 oz.) can nestle chocolate mocha

Mix all together and put in jar. To make a great cup of hot chocolate, add 1/4 cup mix to a mug full of hot water and stir. Mini marshmallows on top are at your discretion.

Peppermint Marshmallows
1 cup powdered sugar
3.5 envelopes unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup cold water
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup hot water
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large egg whites
1 teaspoon peppermint extract
Red food coloring

Oil bottom and sides of a 13 x 9 inch baking pan. Dust sides and bottom with some powdered sugar.

In a bowl for standing mixer, sprinkle gelatin over the cold water and let stand to soften.

In a 3-quart heavy saucepan cook granulated sugar, corn syrup, hot water and salt over low heat (stir constantly with wooden spoon) until sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to medium and bring to a boil without stirring, until a candy thermometer reads 240 degrees F (about 12-13 minutes).

Remove pan from heat and immediately pour mixture over gelatin mixture stirring until gelatin is dissolved. Beat this mixture on high speed for about 6 minutes. The mixture should be white, thick and about triple in volume.

In a large bowl with cleaned beaters, beat whites until they just hold stiff peaks. Stir egg whites, sugar mixture, peppermint extract and a couple drops of food coloring together until just combined. Pour mixture into baking pan.

Sift 1/4 cup powdered sugar evenly over top of the mixture. Chill uncovered for 3 hours to 1 day.

After cooled, gently remove and place on a cutting board and cut into 1 inch cubes.

Makes about 96 marshmallows.

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

Christmas Cocktails

So, THE week is upon us. Christmas is right around the corner. Hopefully, you're well on your way to completing your shopping. And have your holiday menus under control. I'll give you some ideas on wrapping and centerpieces in a couple of days, but wanted to hit the important stuff first. Cocktails. Here are some drinks that incorporate "traditional" holiday flavors that you might want to try.

The first two are martinis. Just the thing to offer guests as they walk in the door. Both are powerful, but the first is cut slightly with club soda so they don't knock people out of their stockings. Each requires a couple of specialty ingredients, so do your shopping now.

Candy Cane Martini
This is especially festive with a mini candy cane hanging off the glass's rim.
Makes one cocktail. Multiply as needed.

In a cocktail shaker filled with crushed ice, combine:
1 1/2 ounces vodka
2 teaspoons peppermint schnapps
1 ounce club soda
1 tablespoon simple syrup

Shake and strain into cocktail glass.

Gingerbread Martini
I even made a little icing to rim the glasses when serving these. Mix 1 cup powdered sugar with two tablespoons water. Dip the glasses in and let dry a bit. Don't worry if it drips some...just makes it look like the eaves of a gingerbread house. You could also rim your cocktail glasses with cinnamon sugar when serving these.

1 ounce gingerbread syrup (Like that used at coffee shops. Look for Monin brand in your grocery store. Or just buy from your local Starbucks.)
1 1/2 ounces vanilla vodka
3/4 ounce Bailey's Irish Cream
Splash of dark creme de cacao

Combine in ice-filled cocktail shaker and strain into glasses.

And two traditional recipes that your guests will be quite impressed you tried. (And the egg nog ain't easy. But it's well worth the effort. Yummy and creamy...nothing like the chemical tasting stuff you buy in cartons.)

Classic Egg Nog
From Southern Living magazine
Makes about 3 quarts.

1 1/2 cups sugar
12 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 cups half and half
4 cups milk
1/2 cup bourbon
1/2 cup brandy
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups whipping cream
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Gradually add sugar to eggs in a large glass mixing bowl, whisking until blended. Set aside.

Stir together half and half and milk in a large sauce pan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, 12 to 15 minutes or just until mixture begins to bubble around edges of pan. (Be careful NOT to let mixture boil.)

Gradually stir half of hot milk mixture into egg mixture. Stir egg mixture into remaining hot milk mixture in sauce pan.

Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture slightly thickens and a thermometer registers 160 degrees (will take about 25 to thirty minutes). Remove from heat and stir one minute. Pour through fine wire mesh strainer into a serving bowl. Stir in bourbon, brandy and vanilla. Let cool one hour. Cover and chill at least four hours.

Beat whipping cream at high speed with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Fold whipped cream into chilled eggnog and sprinkle with nutmeg.

(This keeps for a week or two in the refrigerator. The alcohol actually keeps it healthy!)

Hot Buttered Rum
The rum base below makes about 16 servings when added to good aged rum. It keeps in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Beat 3/4 pound softened butter and 1 cup dark brown sugar with an electric mixer until fluffy. Add 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves and a pinch of slat and beat again to combine. Chill the buttered rum base until ready to use.

To make 1 hot buttered rum, put two heaping teaspoons of the buttered rum base and 1/12 ounces aged rum into an eight ounce mug and fill with boiling water. Stir to melt and mix. Serve immediately.

Monday, December 18, 2006

More on Martha's Homekeeping Handbook

As promised, here's a further take on Martha Stewart's latest tome. Her almost five pound Homekeeping Handbook. As I said before, I was initially underwhelmed. Seemed like a combination of the painfully obvious and the not-so-necessary. After a closer look though, I've decided it's worth putting on your holiday wish list.

Stewart points out that her book is really a continuation of a tradition of books first compiled by the eponymous woman who published Mrs. Beetin's Book of Household Management in 1861. Martha says she received her first copy a hundred years later when she married. Since then, she has kept notes on her own homekeeping and says this is the result of the over forty year effort.

First off, I'm gratified to see an emphasis on taking care of the environment. Many of her cleaning ideas and product selections emphasize choosing the least-toxic options first. Like baking soda instead of oven cleaner. White vinegar and water solution instead of Windex. It's something we all should keep in mind.

It's also interesting to see the tasks she feels should be done daily, monthly, etc. While some seem obvious ("Wipe up spills while they're fresh."), the reminders are nice to have.

A group who will REALLY benefit from the book is a soon-to-be-married couple or someone thinking of moving into a new home. I found the most interesting and useful sections of the book to be the lists of essential equipment and tools. Like pots and pans and kitchen utensils. Small appliances and what belongs in a pantry (and how long you can keep it).

Other things that seemed valuable include: Organizational ideas. An illustrated section on every piece of flatware you could ever imagine. (You can finally figure out whether grandmother's silver including fish forks or not.) A stain-removal guide (again with an environmental emphasis). The best way to care for cut flowers. (I figured out why my amaryllis I purchased recently didn't do so well. You have to fill the hollow stems with water. Who knew!) Even pest control tips.

The last sections reach a bit afield, however. Not sure why there's a photo outlining the "anatomy of an incandescent bulb." Or why there's a chapter on heating and cooling systems. But when Martha sticks to the "homekeeping," there's lots to be learned.

There were a few surprises too. I was thrilled to learn that I actually CAN run my good silverplate through the dishwasher. (Just make sure you don't have stainless steel in the same load. They somehow react to damage both finishes.) If Martha says it's ok, I'll believe her.

If there's a new bride (or groom) on your Christmas list...or if you're looking to restock your home, this is a book to buy. While I think it tries ultimately to be too much for too many, there's still enough good info in it to make it worth a purchase. (Do yourself a favor though. Don't pay the full retail price of $45. Head to amazon.com.)

Sunday, December 17, 2006

Beets and Goat Cheese

It's winter almost everywhere here in the U.S. (Although the almost 80 degrees we're experiencing here in Dallas makes one wonder.) That means it's prime season for beets. Although I've always associated beets with the summer and their cool pickled version, I've lately added them to my winter culinary repertoire. Here's a couple of twists on a basic recipe that I think you'll enjoy.

Wine pairings: Because the beets have a sweet earthiness, these salads both pair well with lighter reds like Beaujolais Nouveau or even rosé. They also work with Chardonnay. (Toastiness of nuts in second version especially works with an oak-fermented white.) The spicy version might benefit from a Sauvignon Blanc to cut the heat a bit.

Roasted Beet and Goat Cheese Salad
Serves 4

8-10 baby beets
Olive oil
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
Salad greens
Juice of half a lemon
Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
2 ounces fresh goat cheese

Trim stem and root ends of beets and place on large square of aluminum foil. Drizzle beets with olive oil and season with thyme, sale and pepper, tossing to coat.

Close aluminum foil packet and roast beets at 350 degrees for one hour. Remove and set aside to cool.

In a bowl, combine salad greens, lemon juice and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Toss together. Season with salt and pepper and arrange salad on four serving plates.

Rub the roasted beets to remove their skins. (Use gloves or paper towels to protect your hands from the staining juice. And DON'T get it on your clothes!) Slice the beets and arrange on top of greens. Crumble goat cheese over top and drizzle with additional olive oil if desired.

This is a spicier version of a beet salad that I found in the New York Times Magazine last year. It's a little more complicated to prepare, but has great layers of flavors that make it worth the effort.

New Orleans-Style Beets with Goat Cheese and Walnuts
Creole spice:
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried basil
1/8 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

Mix together and set aside.

2 pounds medium-size beets
1/4 cup olive oil
Creole spice
1/2 stick of butter
1 cup walnuts (You can also substitute pine nuts--as I discovered when I burned the walnuts first time I made this!)
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
8 ounces goat cheese
1/2 cup chives, sliced into 1-inch-long pieces

In a large pot, boil beets until fork tender, approximately 20 minutes to an hour depending on beet size. (You can also roast the beets, using techniques described above.) Peel beets.

Slice beets into 1/4 inch thick rounds, drizzle with half the olive oil and generously dust with Creole spice. Marinate for about twenty minutes.

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter and toast walnuts (or pine nuts) for about five minutes. (Be careful NOT to burn the walnuts OR the butter!) Strain melted butted into medium bowl and reserve walnuts.

Add rest of olive oil and the vinegar to the butter. Whisk together and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place beets on cookie sheet and broil for about five minutes. (You can also grill the beets for a more charred flavor.)

Remove beets and toss with the walnut butter vinaigrette.

Divide beets onto four plates. Crumble 2 ounces of goat cheese over each plate and top with walnuts and chives.


Saturday, December 16, 2006

Carnitas: Slow Cooker Pork Mexican Style

My mom showed up at my doorstep the other day with an extra pork roast she couldn't use. (True story.) Not one to look a gift pig in the mouth, I decided to get creative. Usually I just dump a pork butt or pork shoulder into the Crock Pot, pour a bottle of barbecue sauce in, and then eight hours later pretend I'm in North Carolina eating pulled pork. This time I decided to go south of the border and try to add a little Mexican flair. The final product was moist and juicy with just enough spicy heat. Shredded into flour tortillas, and topped with taco fixings like avocado, lettuce, sour cream and chopped onions, it was the best carnitas this guy's ever tasted.

Here's the recipe:

Crock Pot Carnitas

3-4 pound pork butt or pork shoulder roast
2 tablespoons fajita seasoning
1 1/2 cups green chile sauce (can use bottled)
1 jar salsa (use your favorite or whatever is floating around in your pantry)
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Place pork roast in slow cooker and dump rest of ingredients in. Cook on low for 8-10 hours or high for 6-8 hours. Meat will be incredibly juicy and tender and shred easily with a fork.

Serve with soft tortillas and your favorite toppings.

Ole!

Friday, December 15, 2006

Beaujolias

Beaujolais is a simple bistro-style wine. Made from gamay grapes, it comes from France, in the southernmost section of Burgundy. Beaujolais Nouveau, a young wine that sometimes only takes six weeks in its journey from vine to retail, has a cult following. First of all because it is seen as an indication of how good a particular Burgundy vintage will be. It's also a popular American Thanksgiving wine since it's, by law, released only a minute after midnight on the third Thursday of November.

In the past, the closest I've come to a young wine like this is a couple of glasses of heurigen wine that I experienced on a trip to Austria in the 1980's. Since then, I've been offered a couple glasses of Beaujolais Nouveau and wasn't really a fan. It was a bit too sweet and simple for my tastes. As I've mentioned before though, I am a recent convert. We had a bottle at our recent pot-luck wine dinner and it was more complex and less treacly than I remembered. That may be a function of the vintage...or of my evolving palate. Anyway...

In France's bistros, Beaujolais is a wine you'd probably be served in a glass tumbler with simple fare like grilled sausages and potatoes. At home, you might serve it with meat loaf or even spaghetti. Traditionally, it's slightly chilled before serving.

Of course, Beaujolais Nouveau is not the only wine that comes from the region. Beaujolais Villages is made from grapes from one of the villages in the region where the grapes are considered top-notch. (Opened a nice bottle of Beaujolais Villages from Reserve de Valfleury the other night. It had a good berry fruitness, but also a touch of spice that made it perfect for the simply baked chicken breasts we had it with.) Even one step higher are the cru Beaujolais from 10 specific villages where the soil helps to create superior grapes.

So, try Beaujolais. If you go for the nouveau, make sure you drink it up by early spring. It's not a wine that ages well. And even the Villages and cru aren't real candidates for the cellar. These are value wines (less than $15 for the highest priced!) and should be drunk at will.

Kitchen 101 Plus: Phyllo Dough

Another technique you'll need when making the Green Chile-Cheese Pillows I talked about a couple of entries ago is handling Phyllo dough. Frankly, I was always afraid of it. I thought it was simply too delicate to deal with. I mean, come on, it's a paper-thin sheet of dough made with nothing but flour and water. I took the plunge with this latest recipe though and discovered it's really not that unforgiving. Just takes little practice and a little advice.

So, here are some tips for using phyllo dough.
  • Allow phyllo to thaw overnight at room temperature or in the refrigerator. You want it completely defrosted before you work with it.
  • Carefully unroll sheets onto a smooth, dry surface. Make sure surface is good and clean. Your counter is fine.
  • Make sure you always keep the dough covered with a damp (not wet) towel or paper towel. You'll lift the towel each time you need to get a new sheet off the stack, but replace it immediately. If the dough gets dry (and it doesn't take much), it will crack and be unworkable.
  • Brush each layer of phyllo with melted butter as you work. To prevent edges from cracking, brush them first and work toward the center.
  • If the dough tears, don't worry. Just readjust, pull it back together and keep going. Your recipe is likely to call for layers of phyllo, so a snag here and there will be minor in the overall scheme of things.

Here's an easy way to use phyllo dough for a main course, courtesy of Athena, the company that most likely made the phyllo dough you'll buy at the grocery.

An easy use is to take five sheets of the dough, butter and layer the sheets and then cut it in half. Place a boneless, skinless chicken breast at one edge. Top the chicken with a favorite cheese, sundried tomatoes or vegetables, and roll it up in the dough. Bake for 20 minutes at 350°F and you have taken everyday chicken and turned it into an elegant entree.

You can also find premade phyllo cups in the frozen section of your grocery. They are great for easy appetizers and even easy desserts. Fill each with a dollop of lemon curd from a jar and a fresh raspberry and you have an elegant addition to a dessert buffet.

So, don't be afraid of phyllo. It's your phyriend.

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Real Men DO Eat Quiche

...or at least fritattas! Sometimes you need to make something quick, light and a little more healthy. When I find myself with a few leftover vegetables and nothing else to cook, I'll throw together a crustless almost souffle-like quiche. It's a one-dish meal that only needs a glass of a crisp white wine to make an elegant evening.

Here's my basic approach.

Saute whatever vegetables you have on hand in a little olive oil until tender. I've used leeks, onions, peppers, asparagus, squash, mushrooms, tomatoes and even leftover steamed spinach in mine. (One of the standard times I fix a frittata is a day or two after a party to use up the leftovers from the vegetable tray.)

Once the vegetables are cooked and tender, dump them in a large bowl.

In a separate bowl, beat 4-8 eggs (depending on how many folks you are feeding) with a little milk or cream, salt and pepper. (The more you beat, the lighter the final product will be. You can even use a blender if you want.)

Blend eggs into vegetable mixture and then pour into baking dishes you've prepared with a little cooking spray. (If you'd like, you can also add a little grated cheese, or even something like crab or chopped turkey. I usually just keep it on the simple side if I have a nice enough variety of vegetables.)

Note: I've discovered I like these best in individual ramekins or smaller baking dishes that serve two people. It cooks faster and is fun to serve that way. But you can also bake in a pie plate or small baking dish.

Bake at 350 degrees for about thirty minutes or until puffed, slightly golden and eggs are set in center.

Easy and GREAT food.

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Orange Slice Bars

If you're like me, you have an unnatural addiction to those lumps of artificial flavors known in the candy world as "orange slices." (Cherry sours too, but that's for another day.) A couple of years ago, I was excited to run across this old-fashioned recipe for Orange Slice Bars, a blondie kind of dessert bar studded with bits of candy orange slices and nuts. They've become a holiday tradition around our house, and make a great retro surprise if you're ever asked to bring cookies or dessert to a Christmas gathering.
(Look...no one said the beautiful life had to ALWAYS be gourmet!)

Here's the recipe:

Orange Slice Bars

2 cups brown sugar
4 eggs
2 tablespoons orange juice
1 pound candy orange slices
1 or 2 cups chopped nuts
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon extract
Powdered sugar for dusting

Beat brown sugar, eggs and orange juice until light and fluffy. Cut up orange slices (I use kitchen shears sprayed with a little cooking spray. It's a sticky mess otherwise.) and combine with nuts. Dust candy and nuts with 1/4 cup flour.

Sift remainder of flour together with baking powder and cinnamon and add to egg mixture.

Stir in vanilla and lemon extracts. Add orange slices and nuts.

Spread into 9 by 13 baking pan that has been oiled and lined with parchment paper.

Bake at 250 degrees for 1 1/2 hours. (To keep cookies moist, put baking pan filled with water into oven on rack under baking cookies.)

When partially cooled, cut into bars and roll in powdered sugar.

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

Green Chile-Cheese Pillows

Here's the canape I fixed for our pot-luck wine dinner last week. I got the recipe from culinary instructor Anne Legg at a great class she taught at Central Market a couple of weeks ago on make-ahead hors d'ouerves. We had them with California sparkling wine, but they would also be great with a light white wine like Sauvignon Blanc or even a margarita.

Green Chile-Cheese Pillows
Makes 30-36 pieces.

8 ounces cream cheese, softened
3 Poblano chiles or 4 New Mexico green chiles, roasted, peeled and seeded (You can buy frozen chopped Hatch chiles at Central Market.)
2 cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon chipotle Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 1/2 teaspoons seasoned salt
2 tablespoons plain dry breadcrumbs
1 package phyllo dough, thawed in refrigerator overnight
1 1/2 stick butter, melted

Beat cream cheese in large bowl until smooth. Finely chop chiles and beat into cream cheese. Beat in Tabasco, chili powder and seasoned salt. Add grated cheese by handfuls and beat well. Add breadcrumbs. Mixture will be fairly stiff.

Scoop 1/2 of mixture into pastry bag (or substitute Ziploc bag) and set aside.

Unroll one of two bags of phyllo in package onto a clean counter. Cover with plastic wrap and damp kitchen towel

Lay one sheet of phyllo on a clean work surface and brush quickly with melted butter. lay second sheet of phyllo over first and brush again with melter butter. Repeat to make four layers total, but do not butter top sheet.

Use kitchen shears to cut stack of phyllo into quarters. Lay with short ends facing you, unbuttered side up. Pipe a fat row of filling 1/2 inch above bottom of each square, leaving a one inch border on either side.

Fold long edges into center and fold up the dough from the bottom, pressing lightly to make a burrito-shaped package. Butter the top two inches of dough before the final fold so the loose end will adhere. Brush the outside lightly with butter on all sides. Repeat with three remaining pieces of dough. Place pillows, seam-side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Repeat with remaining filling and rest of dough in package. (Open second bag when you need to.) Refrigerate pillows until ready to use. (Note: Pillows can be made ahead and frozen at this point. Once they are frozen on baking sheet, place them in heavy quart size Ziploc bags. They can be stored for up to three months and do not need to be thawed before baking.)

To bake, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bake refrigerated pillows 12 minutes or frozen pillows 15-18 minutes, until pastry is a rich golden brown.

Allow pillows to cool 10 minutes before serving. Filling will be very hot.

Kitchen 101 Plus: Roasting Peppers

I've realized with the latest recipe for Green Chile Cheese Pillows that there are some kitchen "skills" that some of you may not be familiar with. So, I'm starting a new section on the blog that I'll call Kitchen 101 Plus. It's not Kitchen 101 because it's not going to be the absolute basics like how to boil an egg, but the intermediate kind of skills you can add to your repertoire to make your meals even more beautiful. But don't worry...none of them are too difficult.

Let's first tackle how to roast peppers. You can use these techniques on any kind of peppers from chiles to red or green bell pepper. And you can do it in the oven, on the grill, or if you're feeling adventurous, over an open flame. (I usually go with the grill method.)

Here's the how-to.

Coat each pepper with a tablespoon or so of oil.

Grill: Put onto a hot grill and turn as you see black scorch marks appear on the peppers. To get them well-roasted should take a total of ten minutes or so. (NOTE: It is important that the peppers get good and black to make them easier to peel. No worries. When the skin is removed, all the black parts will disappear.)

Broiler: Place peppers on a baking sheet and put under broiler. Watch for dark splotches, remove baking sheet from oven and turn with tongs. Continue until all sides of the peppers are blackened.

Open flame: Working carefully over a gas burner, hold pepper with tongs and turn over flame until thoroughly blackened. (Not only is this probably the most dangerous method, it's also, quite frankly, not the most effective method either. I'd suggest you just save this technique for marshmallows when you're camping.)

Place hot peppers into a heavy-duty zip top bag and seal. As the peppers cool, the skins will steam themselves loose.

Once the peppers are cool enough to handle (probably about 15 to 20 minutes), pull the stems out of each pepper. Place the pepper on a flat surface and gently peel the skin of off each pepper.
Slit the peppers open and, with the dull side of a kitchen knife, scrape out the pulp, ribs and seeds and discard.

Slice or chop as needed. While you're at it, make extras and freeze to pop out at a moment's notice. Chiles can enliven lots of dishes and roasted red peppers make an elegant addition to sandwiches, salads, or antipasto platters.

Get adventurous and try it!